Rest assured, this blog will be better composed and contain fewer spelling errors. I have all the time in the world and plan to take it, as it is part of my paying for my current hotel situation. But more on that later.
After my last post, I saddled again to leave Soria, a friendly and very Spanish town, unaccustommed to visitors, to head into the mountains. After a fairly short ride, I reached a town and a river I could love. Vinuesa, and the Rio Revninuesa were phenomenal. I caught my first two European trout, both small brown trout, amongst the gushing clear waters of the Revinuesa, pouring out of the very high mountains. Planning to fish the next morning legally, as I had no fishing license and there was free fishing, I awoke in my road and stream-side campsite to the makings of a bad day. It rained the moment I broke camp. I also knew I faced a major challenge that day, though I hadn´t a clue until I finally started the ascent. I climbed to a height of 5,700 feet and then a second climb to over 5,000 feet.
The mountains still held snow and I reached the first peak in a deluge the most of the ride. I thought it might change to snow and I crawled into a hilltop restaurant for warm eggs and a glass of dark red Rioja wine at 10 AM. I completed the ride with a long downhill descent to Najera, where I relaxed finally at a formal campsite. The two climbs were the most difficult thing I have ever put my body through and I am happy to be at the other end of both of them, in LA RIOJA! I reached my first magical destination, with two trout and two mountains behind me.
In Najera, I made my first friends of the trip as well. As I sat drinking a glass of wine in a cafe in a beautifully kempt square paralleling the Rio, I heard American english. They were taking a pilgramage across Spain, a well known walk to most Europeans and unkown to me. One from Berkeley, CA- a possible next destination for the Krisztian Expresz!
Today, I am in a hotel, having not ridden for the first time in exactly a week. Instead, I fished, with no luck, and am drinking wine like water. The hotel is beyond my means but was necessary as yeserday was utterly defeating. I will spend two nights here total, recovering and recuperating- and drying. Yesterday I woke up to rain. My gear was already wet from previous days. The rain continued off and on, once in an enormous thunderstorm, while I hid in an alcove of a home- confusing the residents with inability to communicate and a curiously dressed stranger hiding from the rain. My legs hurt. I tried to fish a small stream but instead wandered through nettles for an hour. The towns I passed never had a restaurant or cafe to eat. I did not eat a decent sized meal until 5PM and then another storm was coming. Devouring bread and cheese in the parking lot of a Maxi Dia (supermarket) I became aware of the devilish clouds returning. I raced south to Ezcaray, a town I became interested while in the States still for its rivers and beautiful landscape. There were finally hotels and food and people. A tourist town. It is well cared for and clearly has an influx of money from tourists, especially in August, but not right now. I am one of a very few to stay right now in the hotel.
Although beyond my means, I feel I have finally channelled (as I had hoped orignally) the musing of Ernest Hemingway as I lead a life in the Spanish hills full of wine, rivers, and light in astounding comfort and pleasure. I strolled a dirt road today and looked forward to purchasing a delicious bottle of 4 € Rioja wine. Except, I am graced by Euro 2008 which Ernest likely did not encounter- France Italy match tonight!
The weather has really pushed me inside and pushed the rivers up making living and fishing difficult. I hope to see a change in the near future. In 7 days on the road, only 2 have been without rain thus far. Also, I have been skunked so far on the river today. I will head back out for a few hours after this post, maybe one gleaming Rio Oja trucha to reward my difficulties of yesterday. Good to be comfortable, but ready to hit the road soon again! This life will get expensive!
I cannot help but think of my good friends finding such pleasure in such a place with me. May glacial rivers reflecting bright Spanish sun be in everyone´s future.
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2 comments:
So Hemingway, although you are a long way from the seasoned fisherman searching for the greatest catch of his life, you seemed to have found quite the adventure. I encourage you to "sail further." Your big fish is sure to be worth it (rain or not). I know you will come back with more than just bones. :)
Your blog keeps getting better and better! Your older articles are not as good as newer ones you have a lot more creativity and originality now keep it up!
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