Having left my oceanside retreat in Noja, I picked up Brian at the Santander airport in a beautiful sunny afternoon. By the time we left the airport, having arranged Brian´s gear, we rode for an hour in the rain to reach the home of a couchsurfing host. Manuel was extremely kind and his wife gave us some home-cooked meal, my first in weeks. It was wonderful. Brian got his first mainland Europe experience that night as we got a few drinks. We then saddled up the next day and took a short ride to Laredo- about 35 miles in about 3.5 hours. The hills were long and hard the northern coast of Spain is difficult along the sea. Huge hills, very steep, stood in our way everytime we reached a valley. But, it is green and bucolic and quite scenic.
The hills were unrelenting and we took residence in a formal campsite in the town of Laredo. It was an amazing beach and wonderfully sunny weather. We spent a few hours on the beach splitting a bottle of wine and some food. The next day, we took to the hills once again. Although the views over rocky cliffs plunging into the Cantabrian sea were magnificent and the sun shone strong, the ride was one of the more difficult of my trip thus far and it was only Brian´s second day. He rode hard, though, and tried to keep up on the long steep climbs. The sweaty dripped through and into my sunglasses and I was dripping all over.We finally reached a point where we needed beer and sat for an hour drinking beer under over hanging grape vines before rolling into the suburbs of Bilboa where 30-story skyscrapper apartments, all new, lined the streets where my map didn´t indicate city before. The city is growing exponentially and we retreated to the hills for an informal camp and to watch the Germany Turkey match.
This morning we awoke to throw ourselves out of the tents in the rain and race to the city to find a hostal. Hungry, thirsty, and tired we are now drying our gear and will spend the day exploring the city which I already took to. The old city is full of small streets without cars and there are tree covered boulevards, with parks and some fantastic architecture, not even the best being the Guggenheim designed by Frank Gehry. Somehow Bilboa reminds me of Budapest with a variety of districts and an amalgamtion of architectural styles mashed together, strewn with advertisements and the hustle of a big city. I am very happy here and look forward to exploring the art museum. I finally found a store with english book titles and bought On the Road. Having never read it before, it should be a fine addition to my summer reading.
Tonight we watch the Spain-Russia match in Bilboa! ESPANA! ESPANA!
Thursday, June 26, 2008
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Noja
Of course, Holland choked and were totally outplayed by Russia who deserved to win. I harkened back to a month previous watching a certain hockey team drop to another Red team.
Today I took a ride without my gear for the first time ever. I had just the handlebar bag and it was as if I grew wings. At first, the bike and I did not respond to one another well as I longed for the steadfast weight to which I had become so accustommed. I gradually found my legs and the bike and I passed several decked-out Spanish riders speedily with no thought. I feel so strong. I did not even get out of the seat when climbing a mjaor hill. Just pushed hard and fast and left others behind me. My body is physically the best it has been in years.
My mind, too, is working in overdrive as I polish off my fourth book of the journey. My great reunion with fiction has been as beautiful and graceful as I imagined for two long years. Finally I can read the books I accumulated over the two years of book sales and random pick-ups. Thus far, Camus, Fitzgerald, Momaday, and Chevalier have graced my presence. More book purchasing in Santander for sure. Maybe Brian will trade a few with me, too. Sadly, I have left many in hotel drawers or other bookshelves on my route. They will be loved by someone I am sure, but a finished book is deadweight in my mind. Such is the mentality of a touring biker.
Today is cloudy and humid and unlike the past few days. Rain is about and I will pray that I can reach Santander tomorrow without much rain. I have a feeling in my gut I will ride in the rain to get there to meet Brian- same feeling as before it rained last time!
Today I took a ride without my gear for the first time ever. I had just the handlebar bag and it was as if I grew wings. At first, the bike and I did not respond to one another well as I longed for the steadfast weight to which I had become so accustommed. I gradually found my legs and the bike and I passed several decked-out Spanish riders speedily with no thought. I feel so strong. I did not even get out of the seat when climbing a mjaor hill. Just pushed hard and fast and left others behind me. My body is physically the best it has been in years.
My mind, too, is working in overdrive as I polish off my fourth book of the journey. My great reunion with fiction has been as beautiful and graceful as I imagined for two long years. Finally I can read the books I accumulated over the two years of book sales and random pick-ups. Thus far, Camus, Fitzgerald, Momaday, and Chevalier have graced my presence. More book purchasing in Santander for sure. Maybe Brian will trade a few with me, too. Sadly, I have left many in hotel drawers or other bookshelves on my route. They will be loved by someone I am sure, but a finished book is deadweight in my mind. Such is the mentality of a touring biker.
Today is cloudy and humid and unlike the past few days. Rain is about and I will pray that I can reach Santander tomorrow without much rain. I have a feeling in my gut I will ride in the rain to get there to meet Brian- same feeling as before it rained last time!
Saturday, June 21, 2008
My Personal Poly Phonics (MP3s!)
For those of you wondering, no, I don´t have an iPod with me on this trip. Yes, I miss my tunes. My head does not do justice to She Smiled Sweetly or any La Oreja de Van Gogh song, which I invariably get jammed in my head. I do, however, have music, the sound of life playing with me as I jounrey through the European countryside:
Cowbells- Gotta have more! Am I right? No, really. Cow, sheep, horses, goats all have bells and they ring wildly through the hillsides. I love it. The calfs have smaller bells which ring lightly and the bulls sound like churches. They are the most melodic sounds.
Churchbells- More bells. They are rung, for real, not electronic or anything, by someone at the church at the correct times through the day. They are old and beautiful set in centuries-old spires. I slept across from a contantly ringing church in Ezcaray.
Bike gears- constant under me. Less melodic but always there. They are the back beat to the rest of the world´s music.
Birds- not surprising, but everywhere, we just don´t always take note when talking and listening to iPods. I hear birds everywhere always. I bike, camp, sleep, hang at the beach and birds are there.
Wind- In my ears! No surprise, but behind all the other ¨noises¨is the sound of the wind blowing past me, either created by myself or created by a nasty headwind which blew me away for the first 3 days of my journey!
Finally, least OK, Cars and trucks- Either zooming toward me in the every-increasing pitch of approach or quickly barrelling down on me from behind and worrying me with size and proximity.
Cowbells- Gotta have more! Am I right? No, really. Cow, sheep, horses, goats all have bells and they ring wildly through the hillsides. I love it. The calfs have smaller bells which ring lightly and the bulls sound like churches. They are the most melodic sounds.
Churchbells- More bells. They are rung, for real, not electronic or anything, by someone at the church at the correct times through the day. They are old and beautiful set in centuries-old spires. I slept across from a contantly ringing church in Ezcaray.
Bike gears- constant under me. Less melodic but always there. They are the back beat to the rest of the world´s music.
Birds- not surprising, but everywhere, we just don´t always take note when talking and listening to iPods. I hear birds everywhere always. I bike, camp, sleep, hang at the beach and birds are there.
Wind- In my ears! No surprise, but behind all the other ¨noises¨is the sound of the wind blowing past me, either created by myself or created by a nasty headwind which blew me away for the first 3 days of my journey!
Finally, least OK, Cars and trucks- Either zooming toward me in the every-increasing pitch of approach or quickly barrelling down on me from behind and worrying me with size and proximity.
Haro- Espinosa de Montanes- Noja
Although not a detailed account of the towns I passed through and saw, this is an accurate representation of the places I have spent time in and have seen despite many many kilometers on the road. It is my many km that prevented me from stopping and looking around the towns I did pass. However, they were in fact fairly unimpressive. Mostly small with just a single bar, and I can´t stop for ALL of them. In fact, I biked 183 km in two days to complete what I consider the first leg of this great journey. We´ll dub it the ¨Leg of Solitude.¨The two day big ride included one day of my first century km and then one day of a 4,500 foot mountain pass to drop toward the ocean.
Before I detail that, I must relate that I set up informal camp along a river named the Trueba just outside Espinosa the night after my first century and fished the river until past 10 pm at night as it was still late. And, after being rejuecting by many trout for bad presentations and bad approach, I hooked and released the best trout of my year thus far. As the pink sunset faded over the looming mountain of my future, and the srawming mayflies bounced up and down over the stream, the nose of a 16 inch streambred brown trout poked above the pìnk reflection in the water and drew me into its world. I caught his little brother, too. It was a perfect evening which I celebrated with several delicious Principe cookies and hard hard sleep.
The story continues....
Although I don´t like to brag, what I saw the next morning was in my honest opinion, the most beautiful set of mountains I have ever seen. They reside on the north-facing rim of the Cantabria region. They are tall, majestic, bright green. I was reminded of New Zealand, or other much more exotic locales. They beat the Tetons, they beat the Apps, they beat the Bitterroot, they even beat the Olympics. Sorry, guys. I rode down, down, down through ragged cliffs, amongst dancing goat herds, and, of course, a beautiful stream where I caught two inebriating brown trout which danced out of the brightly colored round stones and into my memory.
Now, though, I´m in CA!!!!! Palm trees, sea breeze, cold blue water, and surfers. No, I´m not in California but Cantabria- or CA for short.... In fact, we even have a marine layer thickening up in the evening as we speak. I am working on evening out my dreadful tan- two brown arms and a white body. I am reading and taking in redwine-aqua con gas combos intraveinously and watching the foci matches that come on relgiously at 20:45 every night. Tonight my favorite team takes the field- Holland! I think they will win it all. They are precise and fast and outplay every team, but they always choke...
After a day of total relaxation, I´ll make sure my legs still work tomorrow and do some sight seeing of lighthouses, and nearby towns. The cliffs and the oceanside here is really outstanding. Then, Monday, the Leg of Solitude comes to an end- thankfully- when Brian arrives!!!!
Before I detail that, I must relate that I set up informal camp along a river named the Trueba just outside Espinosa the night after my first century and fished the river until past 10 pm at night as it was still late. And, after being rejuecting by many trout for bad presentations and bad approach, I hooked and released the best trout of my year thus far. As the pink sunset faded over the looming mountain of my future, and the srawming mayflies bounced up and down over the stream, the nose of a 16 inch streambred brown trout poked above the pìnk reflection in the water and drew me into its world. I caught his little brother, too. It was a perfect evening which I celebrated with several delicious Principe cookies and hard hard sleep.
The story continues....
Although I don´t like to brag, what I saw the next morning was in my honest opinion, the most beautiful set of mountains I have ever seen. They reside on the north-facing rim of the Cantabria region. They are tall, majestic, bright green. I was reminded of New Zealand, or other much more exotic locales. They beat the Tetons, they beat the Apps, they beat the Bitterroot, they even beat the Olympics. Sorry, guys. I rode down, down, down through ragged cliffs, amongst dancing goat herds, and, of course, a beautiful stream where I caught two inebriating brown trout which danced out of the brightly colored round stones and into my memory.
Now, though, I´m in CA!!!!! Palm trees, sea breeze, cold blue water, and surfers. No, I´m not in California but Cantabria- or CA for short.... In fact, we even have a marine layer thickening up in the evening as we speak. I am working on evening out my dreadful tan- two brown arms and a white body. I am reading and taking in redwine-aqua con gas combos intraveinously and watching the foci matches that come on relgiously at 20:45 every night. Tonight my favorite team takes the field- Holland! I think they will win it all. They are precise and fast and outplay every team, but they always choke...
After a day of total relaxation, I´ll make sure my legs still work tomorrow and do some sight seeing of lighthouses, and nearby towns. The cliffs and the oceanside here is really outstanding. Then, Monday, the Leg of Solitude comes to an end- thankfully- when Brian arrives!!!!
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
Soria-Vinuesa-Montenegro de Cameros-Najera-San Millan-Ezcaray
Rest assured, this blog will be better composed and contain fewer spelling errors. I have all the time in the world and plan to take it, as it is part of my paying for my current hotel situation. But more on that later.
After my last post, I saddled again to leave Soria, a friendly and very Spanish town, unaccustommed to visitors, to head into the mountains. After a fairly short ride, I reached a town and a river I could love. Vinuesa, and the Rio Revninuesa were phenomenal. I caught my first two European trout, both small brown trout, amongst the gushing clear waters of the Revinuesa, pouring out of the very high mountains. Planning to fish the next morning legally, as I had no fishing license and there was free fishing, I awoke in my road and stream-side campsite to the makings of a bad day. It rained the moment I broke camp. I also knew I faced a major challenge that day, though I hadn´t a clue until I finally started the ascent. I climbed to a height of 5,700 feet and then a second climb to over 5,000 feet.
The mountains still held snow and I reached the first peak in a deluge the most of the ride. I thought it might change to snow and I crawled into a hilltop restaurant for warm eggs and a glass of dark red Rioja wine at 10 AM. I completed the ride with a long downhill descent to Najera, where I relaxed finally at a formal campsite. The two climbs were the most difficult thing I have ever put my body through and I am happy to be at the other end of both of them, in LA RIOJA! I reached my first magical destination, with two trout and two mountains behind me.
In Najera, I made my first friends of the trip as well. As I sat drinking a glass of wine in a cafe in a beautifully kempt square paralleling the Rio, I heard American english. They were taking a pilgramage across Spain, a well known walk to most Europeans and unkown to me. One from Berkeley, CA- a possible next destination for the Krisztian Expresz!
Today, I am in a hotel, having not ridden for the first time in exactly a week. Instead, I fished, with no luck, and am drinking wine like water. The hotel is beyond my means but was necessary as yeserday was utterly defeating. I will spend two nights here total, recovering and recuperating- and drying. Yesterday I woke up to rain. My gear was already wet from previous days. The rain continued off and on, once in an enormous thunderstorm, while I hid in an alcove of a home- confusing the residents with inability to communicate and a curiously dressed stranger hiding from the rain. My legs hurt. I tried to fish a small stream but instead wandered through nettles for an hour. The towns I passed never had a restaurant or cafe to eat. I did not eat a decent sized meal until 5PM and then another storm was coming. Devouring bread and cheese in the parking lot of a Maxi Dia (supermarket) I became aware of the devilish clouds returning. I raced south to Ezcaray, a town I became interested while in the States still for its rivers and beautiful landscape. There were finally hotels and food and people. A tourist town. It is well cared for and clearly has an influx of money from tourists, especially in August, but not right now. I am one of a very few to stay right now in the hotel.
Although beyond my means, I feel I have finally channelled (as I had hoped orignally) the musing of Ernest Hemingway as I lead a life in the Spanish hills full of wine, rivers, and light in astounding comfort and pleasure. I strolled a dirt road today and looked forward to purchasing a delicious bottle of 4 € Rioja wine. Except, I am graced by Euro 2008 which Ernest likely did not encounter- France Italy match tonight!
The weather has really pushed me inside and pushed the rivers up making living and fishing difficult. I hope to see a change in the near future. In 7 days on the road, only 2 have been without rain thus far. Also, I have been skunked so far on the river today. I will head back out for a few hours after this post, maybe one gleaming Rio Oja trucha to reward my difficulties of yesterday. Good to be comfortable, but ready to hit the road soon again! This life will get expensive!
I cannot help but think of my good friends finding such pleasure in such a place with me. May glacial rivers reflecting bright Spanish sun be in everyone´s future.
After my last post, I saddled again to leave Soria, a friendly and very Spanish town, unaccustommed to visitors, to head into the mountains. After a fairly short ride, I reached a town and a river I could love. Vinuesa, and the Rio Revninuesa were phenomenal. I caught my first two European trout, both small brown trout, amongst the gushing clear waters of the Revinuesa, pouring out of the very high mountains. Planning to fish the next morning legally, as I had no fishing license and there was free fishing, I awoke in my road and stream-side campsite to the makings of a bad day. It rained the moment I broke camp. I also knew I faced a major challenge that day, though I hadn´t a clue until I finally started the ascent. I climbed to a height of 5,700 feet and then a second climb to over 5,000 feet.
The mountains still held snow and I reached the first peak in a deluge the most of the ride. I thought it might change to snow and I crawled into a hilltop restaurant for warm eggs and a glass of dark red Rioja wine at 10 AM. I completed the ride with a long downhill descent to Najera, where I relaxed finally at a formal campsite. The two climbs were the most difficult thing I have ever put my body through and I am happy to be at the other end of both of them, in LA RIOJA! I reached my first magical destination, with two trout and two mountains behind me.
In Najera, I made my first friends of the trip as well. As I sat drinking a glass of wine in a cafe in a beautifully kempt square paralleling the Rio, I heard American english. They were taking a pilgramage across Spain, a well known walk to most Europeans and unkown to me. One from Berkeley, CA- a possible next destination for the Krisztian Expresz!
Today, I am in a hotel, having not ridden for the first time in exactly a week. Instead, I fished, with no luck, and am drinking wine like water. The hotel is beyond my means but was necessary as yeserday was utterly defeating. I will spend two nights here total, recovering and recuperating- and drying. Yesterday I woke up to rain. My gear was already wet from previous days. The rain continued off and on, once in an enormous thunderstorm, while I hid in an alcove of a home- confusing the residents with inability to communicate and a curiously dressed stranger hiding from the rain. My legs hurt. I tried to fish a small stream but instead wandered through nettles for an hour. The towns I passed never had a restaurant or cafe to eat. I did not eat a decent sized meal until 5PM and then another storm was coming. Devouring bread and cheese in the parking lot of a Maxi Dia (supermarket) I became aware of the devilish clouds returning. I raced south to Ezcaray, a town I became interested while in the States still for its rivers and beautiful landscape. There were finally hotels and food and people. A tourist town. It is well cared for and clearly has an influx of money from tourists, especially in August, but not right now. I am one of a very few to stay right now in the hotel.
Although beyond my means, I feel I have finally channelled (as I had hoped orignally) the musing of Ernest Hemingway as I lead a life in the Spanish hills full of wine, rivers, and light in astounding comfort and pleasure. I strolled a dirt road today and looked forward to purchasing a delicious bottle of 4 € Rioja wine. Except, I am graced by Euro 2008 which Ernest likely did not encounter- France Italy match tonight!
The weather has really pushed me inside and pushed the rivers up making living and fishing difficult. I hope to see a change in the near future. In 7 days on the road, only 2 have been without rain thus far. Also, I have been skunked so far on the river today. I will head back out for a few hours after this post, maybe one gleaming Rio Oja trucha to reward my difficulties of yesterday. Good to be comfortable, but ready to hit the road soon again! This life will get expensive!
I cannot help but think of my good friends finding such pleasure in such a place with me. May glacial rivers reflecting bright Spanish sun be in everyone´s future.
Friday, June 13, 2008
Madrid-Puebla de Belena-Cogolludo-Hiendelaencina-Atinza-Berlanga de Duero-SORIA
For those keeping a rocrd, those are my locations that have made an impact thus far and will allow you to follow my path through the sirras north of Madrid, and yes, there are mountains, unbenkownst to me earlier. I have just 14 minutes so forgive me speed and poor writing.
I think of on eof my favorite professors, Edmunds Bunkse when I make such journies in life. I always strive to be similar to him in rejecting being a tourist and becoming and traveler, or better yet, an explorer. Taking up my bike and getting lost over and over on my way out of Madrid, coursing through the bright Spanish countryside full of mountains, streams, and sheep, I realize I have followed in his large, Estonian footsteps yet again.
Thus far, I have witnessed many castles, in various state of ruin, biked something on the order of 150 miles with a 60 pound bike strapped to my rear (a sore one at that), and the list of dramatic numbers continues. However, the numbers and the realities pale in comparison to setting up my tent amongst a grove of straight-planted birches and watching the Spanish sunset half naked in a field of wheat.
I have eaten anything I could get my hands on, but fruit seems to be a big draw for me now. Many its the requirements of a strained body. In the next ten days, I don´t expect to work quite as hard. I plan to reach Santander by the 23rd at 6PM to meet Brian! My aquizition of internet through that time in highly doubtful.
Thus far, I have been gifted many things by extraordinary people throughout my trip. They include: hand drawn directions to find my way out of Madrid, 4 bananas, and a key chain.
I must express, now, though, the difficulty I had in leaving Madrid. With no map and all roads leading to highways out of cities, I had to rely on my wayfinding ability to escape the city. I managed but just barely, and made it to a campsite. Finally finding myself on a map, I was home suddenly. A blip on a map that I could follow. No longer lost in the world, but found and at home, on a bike, moving through Spain.
This has been jumbled and difficult, but try to follow me as I ramble through the next few days and attempt to fish in this country! I will update shortly. I love you all very much and my thoughts continuously drift toward my family and wonderful friends. It is in times of solitude that we are reminded how important a warm smile can be.
I think of on eof my favorite professors, Edmunds Bunkse when I make such journies in life. I always strive to be similar to him in rejecting being a tourist and becoming and traveler, or better yet, an explorer. Taking up my bike and getting lost over and over on my way out of Madrid, coursing through the bright Spanish countryside full of mountains, streams, and sheep, I realize I have followed in his large, Estonian footsteps yet again.
Thus far, I have witnessed many castles, in various state of ruin, biked something on the order of 150 miles with a 60 pound bike strapped to my rear (a sore one at that), and the list of dramatic numbers continues. However, the numbers and the realities pale in comparison to setting up my tent amongst a grove of straight-planted birches and watching the Spanish sunset half naked in a field of wheat.
I have eaten anything I could get my hands on, but fruit seems to be a big draw for me now. Many its the requirements of a strained body. In the next ten days, I don´t expect to work quite as hard. I plan to reach Santander by the 23rd at 6PM to meet Brian! My aquizition of internet through that time in highly doubtful.
Thus far, I have been gifted many things by extraordinary people throughout my trip. They include: hand drawn directions to find my way out of Madrid, 4 bananas, and a key chain.
I must express, now, though, the difficulty I had in leaving Madrid. With no map and all roads leading to highways out of cities, I had to rely on my wayfinding ability to escape the city. I managed but just barely, and made it to a campsite. Finally finding myself on a map, I was home suddenly. A blip on a map that I could follow. No longer lost in the world, but found and at home, on a bike, moving through Spain.
This has been jumbled and difficult, but try to follow me as I ramble through the next few days and attempt to fish in this country! I will update shortly. I love you all very much and my thoughts continuously drift toward my family and wonderful friends. It is in times of solitude that we are reminded how important a warm smile can be.
Monday, June 9, 2008
38 Avenida Reina Victoria Madrid, Espana
In a daze, I stepped off the plane in Madriad having survived two flights and a 5 hour layover to reach my destination- about 20 hours of travel. Since watching my bike box glide away on the cart in Dulles Int´l Airport, I had a bad feeling, which was founded. My oversized cardboard box did not join me in departing the aircraft in Madrid. Instead, I filed a claim, rubbed the 3 hours of sleep from my eyes and set out in search of the address I was furnished by Oliver to accomodate me for my time in Madrid.
Fortunately, when I arrived at Maria´s door, she immediately ensured me that I could stay until everything arrived and I was prepared to cycle away. The rest of the day was surreal and this out-of-body feeling was not aided by my hosts´ decision to go to Starbucks immediately after my arrival. Sitting in Starbucks, listening to American music, I tried to pick up my first words of Spanish and make sense of the conversation. Maria and her brother, who has increasingly enjoyed using english with me, translated as I chugged a grande Cafe Americano. In Spain.
The rest of the day, with no additional sleep, we walked the avenues and I gazed at architecture I had laid eyes on just over a year prior. I felt at home at once. One stop brought us to an incredible living wall in the city. At four stories and 50 feet across the entire wall was a lush garden, dripping moss overlaid by a variety of plantings in beautiful patterns. I later explained to Maria why such a garden could be so beneficial to reducing pollution and runoff into the urban streams during rainstorms- a fact which may have been lost on the greater public. Continuing, we ate Tapas and drank beer through the rest of the evening. We talked amongst hanging pork and chattered with our backs to dozens of Amrican tourists refusing to attempt to speak Spanish as they over consumed alcohol.
Having consumed enough myself, and the time reaching 2 AM, we returned home finally. I had woken up 37 hours before and caught approximately 3 hours on my flights. I slept on a tiny couch with a bar in my back. Best 7 hours of sleep of my life.
I will leave Madrid tomorrow, on my bike which arrived yesterday. All the pieces came and nothing appears to be damaged, though I haven´t ridden it yet. It is assembled for the most part and my full, though limited, existence came with the bike. I am only now realizing the daunting task ahead. Tomorrow morning I say ¨goodbye¨ to TV, internet, and english and ¨Encantado, me llamo Krisztian¨ to the Spanish countryside.
And, yes, I can lisp my z´s and c´s, my y´s have a j sound, my v´s sound like b´s, and certain g´s sound german. Vale!
Fortunately, when I arrived at Maria´s door, she immediately ensured me that I could stay until everything arrived and I was prepared to cycle away. The rest of the day was surreal and this out-of-body feeling was not aided by my hosts´ decision to go to Starbucks immediately after my arrival. Sitting in Starbucks, listening to American music, I tried to pick up my first words of Spanish and make sense of the conversation. Maria and her brother, who has increasingly enjoyed using english with me, translated as I chugged a grande Cafe Americano. In Spain.
The rest of the day, with no additional sleep, we walked the avenues and I gazed at architecture I had laid eyes on just over a year prior. I felt at home at once. One stop brought us to an incredible living wall in the city. At four stories and 50 feet across the entire wall was a lush garden, dripping moss overlaid by a variety of plantings in beautiful patterns. I later explained to Maria why such a garden could be so beneficial to reducing pollution and runoff into the urban streams during rainstorms- a fact which may have been lost on the greater public. Continuing, we ate Tapas and drank beer through the rest of the evening. We talked amongst hanging pork and chattered with our backs to dozens of Amrican tourists refusing to attempt to speak Spanish as they over consumed alcohol.
Having consumed enough myself, and the time reaching 2 AM, we returned home finally. I had woken up 37 hours before and caught approximately 3 hours on my flights. I slept on a tiny couch with a bar in my back. Best 7 hours of sleep of my life.
I will leave Madrid tomorrow, on my bike which arrived yesterday. All the pieces came and nothing appears to be damaged, though I haven´t ridden it yet. It is assembled for the most part and my full, though limited, existence came with the bike. I am only now realizing the daunting task ahead. Tomorrow morning I say ¨goodbye¨ to TV, internet, and english and ¨Encantado, me llamo Krisztian¨ to the Spanish countryside.
And, yes, I can lisp my z´s and c´s, my y´s have a j sound, my v´s sound like b´s, and certain g´s sound german. Vale!
Wednesday, June 4, 2008
Before and...
Perhaps I should first preface this bike trip. It is not a singular entity and I should not treat it as a powerpoint- a straight line from start to finish. Indeed, this trip grew and evolved as I did through my final year of graduate school. It evolved through discussions with my friends. It evolved through a transition into a long distance relationship. There are backdrops and stories and growth just in my reaching this point of sitting on the saddle for the first time in Spain.
For those unaware, I just completed a 19 year education and for the past 15 months I have spoken of doing something big when it was over. Having studied, interned, and worked through my college years, a well deserved break was in order. Further, this would place a cap on one portion of my existence and bring in another time in my life while allowing me to reflect. I will also return to my continent of homeland and comfort which I aspire to bring into my life on a daily basis. Europa! Magyarorszag!
I told Jess that I would make a journey like this during the long snowy Ithaca winter last year. I knew I would follow through in some capacity. Ideas included hiking the Appalachian trail, biking across the US- north/south or east/west, fly fishing around this country via car, or bumming around Europe in some capacity. I immediately began to push Oliver, Rob, and various friends to join me- a companion for safety and mental health. Fortunately, Brian had the same time off to invest in a major undertaking such as the one on which we are about to embark. His story includes travel funding, being turned away by the CEU, and Manchester, England where he will show his photography.
I settled on a route across Europe, southern Europe as a matter of consequence. The plane ticket could be bought for Madrid and so I accepted that as my break-point. I should mention now that the planning has been minimal. I have all the tools for the job, or so I assume. Other than your expected camera, clothes, and bags, the biking aspect of the journey forced inclusion of padded shorts, replacement everything, a new seat, and new tires. Most every decision thus far has been by happenstance- very little rhyme of reason or distinct order in my planning. This is a departure from my life and from my typical MO of a heavily planned existence. The open-ended itinerary and disregard for direction is both scary and intriguing to me. I can only hope my momentum toward Madrid is carried forward into my bike.
As a side note, the bike will likely weigh 30 pounds in addition to the weight of the bike and myself. Two weeks ago, I rode 15 miles. I have not ridden over 20 miles in about 6 months. This upcoming Monday I pray that I will ride 40 miles with an added 30 pounds. I still cannot imagine the pain and changes my body will go through.
One aspect which brings my blood to a boil is the opportunity to fly fish in Europe- a dream of mine since beginning my fly fishing adventures. I hope to fish: La Rioja, Slovenia, Croatia, Slovakia, and Italy. If I am able to fish in just two of those places, I will be elated. I am carrying one small fly rod in a self-built pvc protective case and one flybox full of my favorite flies.
Here, two days before I begin this great journey I sit before my Weather Channel and ponder the challenges. Through the moments of distress and euphoria, exhaustion and relief, I will also be carrying the love and support of family and friends who will in fact lighten my load on my TRANS EUROPA EXPRESZ.
Here are just a few of the many who have supported my great adventure:
For those unaware, I just completed a 19 year education and for the past 15 months I have spoken of doing something big when it was over. Having studied, interned, and worked through my college years, a well deserved break was in order. Further, this would place a cap on one portion of my existence and bring in another time in my life while allowing me to reflect. I will also return to my continent of homeland and comfort which I aspire to bring into my life on a daily basis. Europa! Magyarorszag!
I told Jess that I would make a journey like this during the long snowy Ithaca winter last year. I knew I would follow through in some capacity. Ideas included hiking the Appalachian trail, biking across the US- north/south or east/west, fly fishing around this country via car, or bumming around Europe in some capacity. I immediately began to push Oliver, Rob, and various friends to join me- a companion for safety and mental health. Fortunately, Brian had the same time off to invest in a major undertaking such as the one on which we are about to embark. His story includes travel funding, being turned away by the CEU, and Manchester, England where he will show his photography.
I settled on a route across Europe, southern Europe as a matter of consequence. The plane ticket could be bought for Madrid and so I accepted that as my break-point. I should mention now that the planning has been minimal. I have all the tools for the job, or so I assume. Other than your expected camera, clothes, and bags, the biking aspect of the journey forced inclusion of padded shorts, replacement everything, a new seat, and new tires. Most every decision thus far has been by happenstance- very little rhyme of reason or distinct order in my planning. This is a departure from my life and from my typical MO of a heavily planned existence. The open-ended itinerary and disregard for direction is both scary and intriguing to me. I can only hope my momentum toward Madrid is carried forward into my bike.
As a side note, the bike will likely weigh 30 pounds in addition to the weight of the bike and myself. Two weeks ago, I rode 15 miles. I have not ridden over 20 miles in about 6 months. This upcoming Monday I pray that I will ride 40 miles with an added 30 pounds. I still cannot imagine the pain and changes my body will go through.
One aspect which brings my blood to a boil is the opportunity to fly fish in Europe- a dream of mine since beginning my fly fishing adventures. I hope to fish: La Rioja, Slovenia, Croatia, Slovakia, and Italy. If I am able to fish in just two of those places, I will be elated. I am carrying one small fly rod in a self-built pvc protective case and one flybox full of my favorite flies.
Here, two days before I begin this great journey I sit before my Weather Channel and ponder the challenges. Through the moments of distress and euphoria, exhaustion and relief, I will also be carrying the love and support of family and friends who will in fact lighten my load on my TRANS EUROPA EXPRESZ.
Here are just a few of the many who have supported my great adventure:
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