Since I am fairly confident no one is reading this blog anymore, I am writing primarily for myself, and to segue from one journey to another.
I finished the bike trip. I have been in the United States for two weeks now and have said my hellos to practically every great friend and colleague I have known in my college years since my return. What a whirlwind it has been! I visited Lancaster, Ithaca, Philly, Newark, Baltimore, and Washington- except by car. Far less engaged in my landscape. At first, driving and constantly experiencing my world from a car felt extremely foreign and oppressive but I have slowly taken the burden back on in full and accepted the realities of life. Similarly, my computer use is at approximately 8 hours a day in the face of seeking employment and I am back to *shudder* texting. I can still remember just a few weeks ago how simple and clean my life seemed in comparison.
The riding ended in Hungary. We paddled 4 days below Budapest on the Duna. We got violently ill. Then, one morning at 7 AM in a cool doorway of Csepel, we became I. Brian and I officially parted ways (at least until our Ithaca reunion) and I moved north to Slovakia, Czech Republic, and, briefly, Austria. I visited Jess and her family. It was a very rewarding, educational, and fun trip into the northern worlds of the eastern block- a less known territory for me. I learned more about her past and her mother's life. I also utilized my elementary Hungarian with her aunts!
I spent more time in Budapest, entertaining both Jess and Jadine, a friend I made in Slovenia. I really enjoyed showing people around the city I love. Nora and Karoly took amazing care of me in Labanc Utca and I consumed book after book. I worked lightly on my Hungarian and met with Andras and friends in the evening. I learned the transit system and the city layout better than I ever knew possible in a city for myself.
I suppose, at this time, I should try to reflect and put into words the entirety of the trip. If there is anything I have learned over 2 weeks of trying to explain how the trip went, its that I can't easily. When asked, my mind immediately flashes to those moments of "glory." Everything was for the glory. To explain glory and the scenes washing against my memory and the changes I have undergone is impossible in words. I hope to express myself better through the photos and occasional story telling and in how I live my life and how I present myself to others in the future. The greatest expression of my experience is now me. The adventurer, individual, free spirit I have become.
In that vein, I am now, and have been for about a week, preparing to leave for California. I am crossing another vast mass of land. In my car, I will make my third cross-country journey in 4 years. '05, '07, and now I can add '08 to my American explorations. This round, I go through the middle- Route 70. I can only hope the country and its beauty treat me as well as I have been treated in the past. Alone, aside from my 185000+ mile car, which we will call "Zoltan" (as no one will let me name my first son that anyway), I will fly fish and bounce from here to San Francisco where I hope to finally settle down for a little while and start a "real life." My first one ever. Fingers crossed.
I know one thing: I will keep learning about myself and about the world as I push myself outside my comfort zone and reach out to new possibilities and new people. I look forward to continuing my informal education.
So, lookout, mountains, and lookout, sea, I am coming tomorrow.
Cross country and California Beginnings Blog: www.lookoutsea.blogspot.com
Monday, September 22, 2008
Thursday, August 14, 2008
One Month
As of 6 days ago, I had just one month left in continental Europe. At that time, on September 8, I will be returning to the United States, a future which continues to increase in the clarity of reality and the lens continues to refocus and readjust on changing possibilities. In the meantime, I have one month remaining of my great adventure, yet I have relatively settled for the time being. I have plans, destinations and times and even a roof over my head whenever I like. Still, the next (now) 3 weeks hold many exciting turns and twists which continue to mold me as I meet more and more people who will change my outlook.
As of now, for the record, I cycled 2, 411 kilometers. No, its not 3000 as I had hoped but a fair attempt to say the least. And, for now, the bicycle, and I are resting. I cleaned out my bags and prepared for more touring via train than bike over the next 3 weeks. I will also have more clothing and ready access to toilets, stoves, beds, and pillows. All extraodrinary luxuries I will likely not see as ordinary again anytime soon.
Since my last post, I have visited with family and nonfamily members who have cared for me more kindly than I could ever expect or relate in a blog. It is this kind of giving without recieving hospitality I look forward to passing on in the near future once I can become the too-kind host. If anything can be learned from the past few weeks, it is this lesson, one which I have seen and appreciated everytime I return to Hungary. As a 3rd cousin, son of a high school classmate, or son of an elementary school classmate, I was treated royally. We ate every kind of classic summer Hungarian meal and treat and were force fed pálinka every few hours if not minutes beginning at 7 in the morning and ending as night caps. Brian and I relented to the kind treatment and our specially-trained biking ways fell by the wayside very quickly.
Now, in Budapest, we are resting and recuperating from a lengthy paddling trip up and down the Duna- a total of approximately 70 miles. So, although our legs are resting, our arms continued to fight the current. Self propelled travel is the way to go. Feeling of accomplishment and health benefits aside, it saves extraodrinary amounts on oil consumption and gives the traveler a much better insight into the landscape through which they are traveling. All around, the self propelled portion of the summer has been a great one.
In two days, I will travel to Bratislava and experience another country yet again! Unfortunately, with no ability to speak the language, I will rely on my hosts to assist me in muddling through. Can't wait to add another city and another country to my travels!
As of now, for the record, I cycled 2, 411 kilometers. No, its not 3000 as I had hoped but a fair attempt to say the least. And, for now, the bicycle, and I are resting. I cleaned out my bags and prepared for more touring via train than bike over the next 3 weeks. I will also have more clothing and ready access to toilets, stoves, beds, and pillows. All extraodrinary luxuries I will likely not see as ordinary again anytime soon.
Since my last post, I have visited with family and nonfamily members who have cared for me more kindly than I could ever expect or relate in a blog. It is this kind of giving without recieving hospitality I look forward to passing on in the near future once I can become the too-kind host. If anything can be learned from the past few weeks, it is this lesson, one which I have seen and appreciated everytime I return to Hungary. As a 3rd cousin, son of a high school classmate, or son of an elementary school classmate, I was treated royally. We ate every kind of classic summer Hungarian meal and treat and were force fed pálinka every few hours if not minutes beginning at 7 in the morning and ending as night caps. Brian and I relented to the kind treatment and our specially-trained biking ways fell by the wayside very quickly.
Now, in Budapest, we are resting and recuperating from a lengthy paddling trip up and down the Duna- a total of approximately 70 miles. So, although our legs are resting, our arms continued to fight the current. Self propelled travel is the way to go. Feeling of accomplishment and health benefits aside, it saves extraodrinary amounts on oil consumption and gives the traveler a much better insight into the landscape through which they are traveling. All around, the self propelled portion of the summer has been a great one.
In two days, I will travel to Bratislava and experience another country yet again! Unfortunately, with no ability to speak the language, I will rely on my hosts to assist me in muddling through. Can't wait to add another city and another country to my travels!
Tuesday, August 5, 2008
Magyarország
It vagyok!
I am so glad to be back to Hungary, bicycling roads I know around Balaton and seeing pieces of my family and my fathers past.
After a great night with our German acrobat friends which involved a dry land version of Marco Polo and my first swim in the Balaton, we rode to visit Tamás, Evelyn, Julics, and József- who took amazing care of us! Sitting high on the volcanic remains above Balaton, we dined on gulyás, gomboc, lecsó, and dinnye while drinking József's home made wine and his mother's pálinka. Havent eaten that much or that well in months! I also reviewed pictures from my édes apa's time in Bourgcastle(Spelling?) and it turns out that we look EXACTLY the same. Also of note, he wore leather jackets in the winter with tight high waters and beautiful leather shoes while riding his bike in the snow.
Leaving in a food stupor, Brian and I rode until a major thunderstorm forced us to set camp next to the railroad tracks I have ridden so many times before around Balaton. Sleeping next to the tracks was not too easy, though, but it was necessary as the storm blew hurricane force winds across Balaton as I have seen happen before! We sat in the bar drinking Arany Ászok, another Hungarian treat, and playing rummy infinity. Now I return to the home I spent so many summers retiring in during my impressionable teenage years along the Balaton, the Kovacs lakás. No Siofok bulizni this time, though, just time with family!
Magyar vagyok.
I am so glad to be back to Hungary, bicycling roads I know around Balaton and seeing pieces of my family and my fathers past.
After a great night with our German acrobat friends which involved a dry land version of Marco Polo and my first swim in the Balaton, we rode to visit Tamás, Evelyn, Julics, and József- who took amazing care of us! Sitting high on the volcanic remains above Balaton, we dined on gulyás, gomboc, lecsó, and dinnye while drinking József's home made wine and his mother's pálinka. Havent eaten that much or that well in months! I also reviewed pictures from my édes apa's time in Bourgcastle(Spelling?) and it turns out that we look EXACTLY the same. Also of note, he wore leather jackets in the winter with tight high waters and beautiful leather shoes while riding his bike in the snow.
Leaving in a food stupor, Brian and I rode until a major thunderstorm forced us to set camp next to the railroad tracks I have ridden so many times before around Balaton. Sleeping next to the tracks was not too easy, though, but it was necessary as the storm blew hurricane force winds across Balaton as I have seen happen before! We sat in the bar drinking Arany Ászok, another Hungarian treat, and playing rummy infinity. Now I return to the home I spent so many summers retiring in during my impressionable teenage years along the Balaton, the Kovacs lakás. No Siofok bulizni this time, though, just time with family!
Magyar vagyok.
Thursday, July 31, 2008
Bled, Lake, Rivers, Alps
This place is incredible. From Venice, one of the most dense places I've ever experienced, we moved onto Bled, Slovenia, the most popular Slovenian tourist destination, self titled. It is for good reason. Several times a day, I look up, down, left, right, and my jaw drops open my eyes light up and I realize I have entered a postcard. Since arriving,
I have swum in the most perfect alpine lake which is perfect clear blue and exactly 70 degrees from top to bottom.
I have fished in an even clearer stream for beautiful stream bred rainbow trout and massive brown trout which refuse my flies.
I have managed to catch about 6 or 7 fish, though, and they have all been strong and brilliantly colored. I love just watching the hundreds of trout swim lazily in the clear blue current, ignoring my flies.
I met a very kind and fun Brit named Jadine who left Bled almost as soon as we arrived.
I have swum about half a kilometer to and from the island with a church.
I sat at the edge of the lake while the final moments of light were sucked away from the sky by the sun and the massive Alps cut heavily into the sky through the hazy air left by a violent thunderstorm which rolled thunder through the mountains over and over. The church rang incessantly for many minutes, as if to announce the importance of this beautiful moment in the world.
Despite its slightly ominous name, Bled is possibly the alpine retreat I have alwys dreamed of encountering in my European travels. Let the fun continue, but tomorrow onto Hungary and the motherland. I can't wait to go home.
I have swum in the most perfect alpine lake which is perfect clear blue and exactly 70 degrees from top to bottom.
I have fished in an even clearer stream for beautiful stream bred rainbow trout and massive brown trout which refuse my flies.
I have managed to catch about 6 or 7 fish, though, and they have all been strong and brilliantly colored. I love just watching the hundreds of trout swim lazily in the clear blue current, ignoring my flies.
I met a very kind and fun Brit named Jadine who left Bled almost as soon as we arrived.
I have swum about half a kilometer to and from the island with a church.
I sat at the edge of the lake while the final moments of light were sucked away from the sky by the sun and the massive Alps cut heavily into the sky through the hazy air left by a violent thunderstorm which rolled thunder through the mountains over and over. The church rang incessantly for many minutes, as if to announce the importance of this beautiful moment in the world.
Despite its slightly ominous name, Bled is possibly the alpine retreat I have alwys dreamed of encountering in my European travels. Let the fun continue, but tomorrow onto Hungary and the motherland. I can't wait to go home.
Venice and Running into Mountains
Brian and I jumped headlong into the Adriatic upon arriving in our campsite and then joined the strange, neon lit party club of the campground on the beach. It was not exactly our scene, but a triple jack daniels put me to sleep very comfortably afterward.
We awoke and made a jump to Venice via ferry by noon. Grabbing cafes and pastries along the way, we immediately found ourselves lost among the Venician canals and alleys. Refusing maps and direction, Brian and I explored the island fairly thoroughly, remaining very mobile for 8 hours and just happening to cross paths with Casanova's home and Marco Polo's home. We also crossed paths with hundreds of 3 foot wide alleys, many of which I insisted on walking down, smelling the scent of cool clean laundry hanging many stories above me in the dark shade of the alley. They always ended in water. The water was blue with fish and crabs in it. Amazingly, next to life, there was more aquatic life, not just pollution. We listened to gondolla men sing and play accordion through the canals. Stores full of cut glass of brilliant shades of red blue and green lit up the dark small streets. No cars, no motor vehicles other than boats. TONS of tourists- of all nationalities. It was an experience which is poorly conveyed by words and pictures, Venice is a place only to be experienced in real time. It is one of the most unique places on the planet, known for being so, and actually fulfilled all my expectations of such a special location.
The mash up of people and tourism led to an interestig meeting which led to the current location from which I write this post. Meaghan sat in a cafe where Brian rested as I made a glass purchase. After hearing a brief conversation with my parents, she mentioned she also was going to Slovenia, and would we like to look at her Slovenia book? We talked about our respective travels and went our separate ways, with the possible intent of recountering in Bled, Slovenia, a small alpine lake town.
After this meeting, Brian and I returned to the campsite and took the bikes to ride for the next two days to the Italian-Slovenian border. Upon reaching the border, the Alps stood strong against us, and we doubled over ourselves back and forth across the border three times before relenting in a thunderstorm and setting camp in Gorica-Goriza. Before the storm, however, we swam in a frigid river and happened to be under the largest single span stone bridge in the world. The next morning, we rode off, wet, to the train station to catch a cheap train to Bled- why not? When we stepped out of the train station in Bled, a blue lake with a church set on an island in the middle and massive Alps greeted us.
We awoke and made a jump to Venice via ferry by noon. Grabbing cafes and pastries along the way, we immediately found ourselves lost among the Venician canals and alleys. Refusing maps and direction, Brian and I explored the island fairly thoroughly, remaining very mobile for 8 hours and just happening to cross paths with Casanova's home and Marco Polo's home. We also crossed paths with hundreds of 3 foot wide alleys, many of which I insisted on walking down, smelling the scent of cool clean laundry hanging many stories above me in the dark shade of the alley. They always ended in water. The water was blue with fish and crabs in it. Amazingly, next to life, there was more aquatic life, not just pollution. We listened to gondolla men sing and play accordion through the canals. Stores full of cut glass of brilliant shades of red blue and green lit up the dark small streets. No cars, no motor vehicles other than boats. TONS of tourists- of all nationalities. It was an experience which is poorly conveyed by words and pictures, Venice is a place only to be experienced in real time. It is one of the most unique places on the planet, known for being so, and actually fulfilled all my expectations of such a special location.
The mash up of people and tourism led to an interestig meeting which led to the current location from which I write this post. Meaghan sat in a cafe where Brian rested as I made a glass purchase. After hearing a brief conversation with my parents, she mentioned she also was going to Slovenia, and would we like to look at her Slovenia book? We talked about our respective travels and went our separate ways, with the possible intent of recountering in Bled, Slovenia, a small alpine lake town.
After this meeting, Brian and I returned to the campsite and took the bikes to ride for the next two days to the Italian-Slovenian border. Upon reaching the border, the Alps stood strong against us, and we doubled over ourselves back and forth across the border three times before relenting in a thunderstorm and setting camp in Gorica-Goriza. Before the storm, however, we swam in a frigid river and happened to be under the largest single span stone bridge in the world. The next morning, we rode off, wet, to the train station to catch a cheap train to Bled- why not? When we stepped out of the train station in Bled, a blue lake with a church set on an island in the middle and massive Alps greeted us.
Sunday, July 27, 2008
Three Day Tour Three Day Tour
We left Milano early when Nadia left for work and struggled to leave the city as always, running into highways and bike trails and never the right road. We made it out eventually onto the flat Italian roads with the Alps ever present and snow capped in the distance. On day one we rode 110 km highlighted by a stop under a bridge over a river running clear with Alp water and perfect skipping stones. We napped and ate and relaxed. That night, we ate plums and dipped ourselves in an ice cold irrigation ditch as we prepared for a night of sleep under fighter jet fly bys. We ate ice cream in town and safely slept in the Italian countryside which was simply fileld with rivers corn fields and vineyards, feeing a bit like the Mid Atlantic!
One day 2, we rode 105 km through inreased hills and even more vineyards. We ate delicious watermelon to quench our thirst in the building heat of the dayAround midday, we crossed an enormous ruin bridge with stone entrances on either end leaving and coming from a Roman city, with a castle perched high on the hill. We bought lunch and ate and napped in a manicured green lawn town square sprawled in the shade and spots of sun. We ate pizza and stopped in a small town along a large brown river. We camped in a forest glen which happened to be populated by a few very large very loud bats which screeched all night and kept us waking continuously. Prior, the sunset over the Alps encompassed a perfect scene of the church silhouette and local bikers riding their bikes around town atop the berm behind a massive apple orchard with the sprinlers running.
The final day was the push for Venice and we reached it by riding in a few zig zags to avoid hills and rode about 110 km. In the morning, we stopped into a small town with one building in many pieces. It was amazingly old and barely anyone still held residence there It was set just perched onto the hillside and overlooked a valley full of corn and vineyards. The main buildings metal gate led through a vineyard and into an enourmous 5 story stone wall. We ate lunch beneath the shade of a supermarket along a highway where I was attacked by a praying mantis. We rode almost continuously this day to reach Venice early enough to attempt to find camping. We succeeded, but only barely. Finding no way to cross the bridge (though we didnt look hard enough, there was a sidewak!) and the only boat from mainland having just departed, we set back for the train, and reached Venice! Even the train station looked onto a perfect tourist destination. Then we took Pauls advice, a fellow tourer and German, and walked over a rail bridge under a highway and through a fence to reach a ferry which we rode free. We eventually reached camping by 10PM but not before running into a traveling group of gypsey variety singers and dancers. A great end to quite a 325 km journey. We ride to Slovenia today! More on Venice in next post. Needless to say, the words and photos wil never do justice to the experience of visiting, not surprisingly.
One day 2, we rode 105 km through inreased hills and even more vineyards. We ate delicious watermelon to quench our thirst in the building heat of the dayAround midday, we crossed an enormous ruin bridge with stone entrances on either end leaving and coming from a Roman city, with a castle perched high on the hill. We bought lunch and ate and napped in a manicured green lawn town square sprawled in the shade and spots of sun. We ate pizza and stopped in a small town along a large brown river. We camped in a forest glen which happened to be populated by a few very large very loud bats which screeched all night and kept us waking continuously. Prior, the sunset over the Alps encompassed a perfect scene of the church silhouette and local bikers riding their bikes around town atop the berm behind a massive apple orchard with the sprinlers running.
The final day was the push for Venice and we reached it by riding in a few zig zags to avoid hills and rode about 110 km. In the morning, we stopped into a small town with one building in many pieces. It was amazingly old and barely anyone still held residence there It was set just perched onto the hillside and overlooked a valley full of corn and vineyards. The main buildings metal gate led through a vineyard and into an enourmous 5 story stone wall. We ate lunch beneath the shade of a supermarket along a highway where I was attacked by a praying mantis. We rode almost continuously this day to reach Venice early enough to attempt to find camping. We succeeded, but only barely. Finding no way to cross the bridge (though we didnt look hard enough, there was a sidewak!) and the only boat from mainland having just departed, we set back for the train, and reached Venice! Even the train station looked onto a perfect tourist destination. Then we took Pauls advice, a fellow tourer and German, and walked over a rail bridge under a highway and through a fence to reach a ferry which we rode free. We eventually reached camping by 10PM but not before running into a traveling group of gypsey variety singers and dancers. A great end to quite a 325 km journey. We ride to Slovenia today! More on Venice in next post. Needless to say, the words and photos wil never do justice to the experience of visiting, not surprisingly.
Saturday, July 26, 2008
Milano
Racing through downtown Milano on our bikes, we immediately knew that riding in Italy would be different and the cars had the right to the road.
We took advantage of the city though and visited the Duomo cathedral which dominated the city center with extraordinary Catholic wealth rising high above us in spires and statues bright white in the clear sun. The interior was equally impressive with colorful scenes and immense spaces.
Another highlight included a visit to the WeeGee exhibit we saw in a very unusual very old building. Lots of photos placed on black walls inside a domed wall painted in a second story open space.
Despite our anticipation, the fashion capital held none of the glamour we expected to see walking around us. Cruising the streets, everyone looked European but not exceptional and I even felt remotely appropriately dressed!
Fortunately, every night Nadia took care of us and helped us to order ourselves and push forward with the biking portion of the journey. Amazingly, one of the most memorable parts of our stay were the relentless mosquitoes! A surprise for an urban location but they were present and ate us alive all night. More info later but needless to say, we covered 325 km in 3 days riding afterward to reach Venice. And what a city. Lots more later.
We took advantage of the city though and visited the Duomo cathedral which dominated the city center with extraordinary Catholic wealth rising high above us in spires and statues bright white in the clear sun. The interior was equally impressive with colorful scenes and immense spaces.
Another highlight included a visit to the WeeGee exhibit we saw in a very unusual very old building. Lots of photos placed on black walls inside a domed wall painted in a second story open space.
Despite our anticipation, the fashion capital held none of the glamour we expected to see walking around us. Cruising the streets, everyone looked European but not exceptional and I even felt remotely appropriately dressed!
Fortunately, every night Nadia took care of us and helped us to order ourselves and push forward with the biking portion of the journey. Amazingly, one of the most memorable parts of our stay were the relentless mosquitoes! A surprise for an urban location but they were present and ate us alive all night. More info later but needless to say, we covered 325 km in 3 days riding afterward to reach Venice. And what a city. Lots more later.
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